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Rick: We'll recog — ha HA! I hope that gives you something to start with. They share their vino, and their love of music, with a fun-loving passion. As mentioned, Orvieto is a popular place to rent, but it is on the outskirts of Tuscany. It's richly decorated from top to bottom. Rick: And eat in the season. Dating from 300 B.C. Annie: …and they would have to build wooden additions and balconies hanging over the streets so it was a tangled mess of balconies and roofs. He always has some creative ways to get off the beaten path and closer to the culture…this time it's truffles. Seeing father, son, and grandson together amid these towering casks is a reminder that this is a rural art form passed from generation to generation. Travel with Rick on this video guide to Siena, Italy and find out what to do on your next trip. A challenge for me in my guidebook writing is to take a slice of a town — like Volterra's main drag — and, with help from local guides, give travelers a peek into the culture. CRETAIOLE; SURROUNDINGS; Attractions; ACCOMMODATIONS; DIRECTIONS; FAQ; PHOTOS ; RATES & CONDITIONS; CONTACTS; New Cretaiole Video with Rick Steves. Call to find a time that fits their schedule; around lunchtime, you can arrange a "Zero Kilometer" tasting, with everything farm-made. And they find minerals, too, underground. Bruno: The Montalcino is traditional wine in Tuscany. Pope Pius II's palace, which welcomes the public, remained the home of the Piccolomini family until 1962. The tower's nearly 400 steps get pretty skinny at the top, but the reward is one of Italy's best views (closed in rainy weather but otherwise open daily in summer until 19:00, off-season until 16:00). Roberto: The famous truffle. This palio, featuring the Virgin Mary (to whom the race is dedicated), will be awarded to the victorious contrada. For a portrayal of that "good government" in action, drop by the historic hospital of Santa Maria della Scala. Rick: In Italian, tartufo. Between Florence and Rome is the region of Tuscany. Silence takes over. Roberto: It's to dig out the truffle…I see one! Annie: And about five centuries later, under the Romans there were just as many people. Rick: For centuries! Farmer: Original, si. Here it's clear modern technology complements tradition, and after centuries of trial and error, wines are better today than ever before. Is Sangiovese grapes, it's only Sangiovese grapes. Adamo: Quello Italiano è una via di mezzo… [Italian is middle of the road…]. A highlight of the parade is the actual banner, or "palio." One word of caution: Be aware that an agriturismo is truly a working farm. Roberto: Yes, in the main square in Siena. As fate–and the surprising Italian planning would have it–the video was completely Beatles themed, if I recall correctly. The many charms of this region reward the traveler with a fascinating insight into a land that makes living well a time-honored art. This is not some folkloric event — it's a real medieval moment. Hamlets like these originated as communities of farmers who banded together on easily defensible hilltops overlooking their farmland. There's something charming…almost seductively charming about this region and its rustic good living. This robust red can be tasted in any of the cantinas lining Via Ricci and Via di Gracciano nel Corso, but the cantina in the basement of Palazzo Contucci is both historic and fun. Entire communities hurl themselves with abandon into the craziness. Do you have a contact for Roberto? Adamo and the Contuccis usually have a half-dozen bottles open, and at busy times, other members of their staff are likely to speak English. But Siena was so hilly, there wasn't enough flat ground to support such a enormous church. Rick: You can use your hands? Rick: Didn't understand a word he said. Rick: So basically, what are truffles? The artifacts were mostly excavated from tombs. While the actual Palio packs the city, you can more easily see the horse-race trials on any of the three days before the main event (usually at 9:00 and after 19:00, free seats in bleachers). First time posting so go easy on me. Today the stony walls are peaceful…growing ever more graceful with age. I've ordered my pasta "bis." Every generation. Some are luxurious, with plush rooms and offering amenities such as riding stables and swimming pools. The tower's Italian nickname, Torre del Mangia, comes from a hedonistic bell-ringer who consumed his earnings like a glutton consumes food. Back in the 1300s, Siena was a major banking, trading, and military power. Views from the terrace include the Tuscan countryside, and somewhere in the distance, on another hilltop, stands Montepulciano. The same family runs two properties in the atmospheric medieval village of Castelmuzio, five miles north of Pienza (both with access to activities at the main agriturismo): Le Casine di Castello is a townhouse with two units, while the more upscale Casa Moricciani is a swanky villa with dreamy views, a garden terrace, and loads of extras. Rick: No, don't eat it!…He ate it! see our FAQ. Rick: Dov'è! Roberto: It's called a vanghino. It grew to its present size between the 13th and 15th centuries, when it was a colorful and crowded city. The aging process carries on in oak barrels. If anything characterizes the Tuscan lifestyle, it's a knack for taking time to savor simple quality…. It looks out over an expanse of vineyards with the hilltown of Montalcino on the horizon. This ritual is called the "passeggiata" — it's like cruising without cars. Rick: So, it was a private home. My Account. And even better, Giorgio's taking me for a spin in one of his classic Italian cars. Adamo explains their wine ages from two to four years in oak from France, Slovenia, and Italy — and that each wood has its own distinct characteristics. Tuscany offers a dolce vita mix of hearty cuisine, fascinating history, and gentle beauty. There's no better example than here in Italy: Siena's Palio. Rick: I like it as simple, because you can taste the oil. Ideally situated in pristine farmland just outside Pienza, this agriturismo is perfect for setting in and fully experiencing Tuscany. And travelers who call in advance are welcome to visit and tour the wineries. Then, as if a reward for all the kneading and rolling, we sit down together and enjoy the fruits of our labor. This farmer prunes his olive trees, employing a lifetime of experience to maximize the fall harvest. Hi, I'm Rick Steves back with more of the best of Europe. Adamo: Ora vi faccio vedere, come…molto antico…attenzione! Tuscany offers a dolce vita mix of hearty cuisine, fascinating history, and gentle beauty. Taking visitors into his vineyard, Gianluca enjoys sharing the fine points of producing his Brunello wine. We can remove the first video in the list to add this one. It's a pre-Christian judgment day as a divine magistrate deliberates his case. My Account . Rick produces a best-selling guidebook series, a public television series, and a public radio show, and organizes small-group tours that take over 20,000 travelers to Europe annually. A short and scenic drive. Rick: So, no chemicals? Each year 70,000 bottles of this producer's prized Brunello work their way through this exacting process. We can read the family name…spelled [out] what we would call backwards…HESCANAS. Lighting shows off the translucent quality of the stone and the expertise of these artists. This is the most important difference between Brunello and other imported red wine from Tuscany. Peering down from above are 172 heads. Roberto: Yes. Rick: So that's the front door of the house? The crenellations along the roof were never intended to hide soldiers, just to symbolize power. Washington State. Young and old gather to prepare these bristly treats. The hospital was run by secular doctors and nurses. Note the loaves are cleverly stamped — to prevent resale. With our Tuscan farmhouse as a base, there are plenty of things to experience within a short and scenic drive. You'll twist up on cypress-lined gravel lanes to this perch, which looks out over an expanse of vineyards and Montalcino in the distance. Roberto: Truffles are mushrooms that live underground. They offer a full slate of activities, and those with a car can use this as a springboard for exploring virtually all of Tuscany. …whether it's wine, food, art, or friendships. Rick: So these dogs are onto something. Tuscany Travel Guide by Rick Steves For coronavirus (COVID-19) travel information, see our FAQ . We've got appointments with two wineries — a large corporate winery first, and then a smaller family-run farm. Farms like this are part of Italy's growing Slow Food movement, where producers maintain the labor-intensive traditions, and consumers are willing to pay extra for the quality. In the nearby hills, a flock of free-range sheep, and a few noble goats, head back to munch spring grass after being milked. Annie: That was the front door — to get inside the house — and it was made so narrow so that you couldn't possibly get inside wearing armor. Need a break? It turns out that quaint little Volterra was a significant player in both ancient Etruscan and Roman times. Tours by Roberto, led by Roberto Bechi or one of his guides, offers off-the-beaten-path minibus tours of the Sienese countryside (up to eight passengers, pickup at hotel). The Mangia Tower [City Tower], built nearly 700 years ago, remains one of Italy's tallest secular towers. She starts by pouring the milk into a big kettle to warm. La Vena di Vino, just across from the Etruscan Museum, is a fun enoteca where two guys who have devoted themselves to the wonders of wine share it with a fun-loving passion. Tuscany information. Roberto: Absolutely. Roberto: A perfect environment. Annie: It was a private home, but it also served a defensive function. [lunch!]. Rick: And explain to me the Super Tuscan. You want get to the heart of the Tuscany drive until you're about 1 1/2 hours in. But while Greek artists focused on the idealized human form, the Etruscans represented people as unique individuals — portrayed realistically, with wrinkles, crooked noses, and funny haircuts. The smaller stones are part of the medieval city wall, which incorporated parts of the much older Etruscan wall. Sangiovese grosso from Montalcino and traditional — aged five years. Agriturismos are subsidized — part of a government effort to help small, family-run farms survive in this age of large-scale corporate farming. (Go with an empty bladder as there are no WCs, and be prepared to surrender any sense of personal space.) We've grabbed a front-row table to enjoy a spritz — that's a favorite drink: mixing Aperol, white wine, and fizzy water. Rick: How are your fava beans doing? Rick: Like here? If you're packed onto the square with 60,000 people, all hungry for victory, you may not see much, but you'll feel it. Bleachers and balcony seats are expensive, but it's free to join the masses in the middle. Adamo: Francia è molto buono, contiene dei tannini molto eleganti… [French is really good, its tannins are very elegant…] Annie: Exactly. It's Sunday, and Roberto's Slow Food group is enjoying a convivial lunch on the farm. As they share their Brunello, it's clear the family appreciates the happiness their work brings to wine lovers not only here but all over the world. Each day this wine-sipping duo open six or eight bottles of the best local wine and serve it to the local gang with a charismatic flair. About Rick; Explore Europe; Our Tours; Travel Tips; Watch, Read, Listen; Travel Forum. Thank you! Especially on this road here. Each July and each August the entire city readies itself for the big race. The motion and realism captured by the fourth-century B.C. Guide: Think a sangiovese vine naturally arrives at 50, 60 years old. To cap our visit, Gianluca's mother is orchestrating the final touches of a delightful lunch — which of course includes homemade pasta. Terms of Service | Privacy, Tuscany, Italy: Chianti Wine and Crete Senesi Regions. Roberto: Absolutely, it's the idea that you have to eat quality and not quantity. Rick: This is salami? Victoria, with a little help, hauls their fresh milk into her cheese workshop. Who knows? It also represents a rising secular society, one that appeared first in Tuscany and then spread throughout Europe in the Renaissance. Rick: Did he find something? BMB provides a great springboard for a world of side trips. Rick: Is that right? Tour Account › Travel Forum › Home / Travel Forum / Italy / Tuscany information; Please sign in to post. Siena's loss became our sightseeing gain, as its political and economic stagnation preserved its purely Gothic identity. His St. Catherine is in spiritual ecstasy. Rick: Wow, I'll be back next year for the artichoke festival. Roberto: Yeah! That gives me half portions of two different pastas for the cost of one, doubling my taste treat. Rick: Everybody's out. Roberto: $100 a pound. And this wedding is not arranged; it's based on love. Posted by mitmos OP 05/31/19 01:09 PM. Once the rope drops, there's one basic rule: There are no rules. Thanks for joining us for a little dolce vita. The farmer tells me that this tomb dates back to about 350 BC. Towns like Volterra were truly city-states — they were fiercely independent and relatively democratic. These Chianina cows are celebrated throughout Tuscany for their lean and tasty beef. Roberto also offers Siena walks and multiday tours. Sienese society cared for its poor. Rick: Siena!? Producing such a fine wine requires a huge investment and lots of expertise. Signor Hescanas rides the chariot into the afterlife. Roberto: These dogs are trained for years before they can find the mushroom. And in Siena Il Campo is perfect for a nice aperitivo. We're dropping in on a farm to visit the tomb of the Hescanas family. The winners thunder through the streets and eventually into the cathedral — filled with jubilation. The back streets of Siena have changed little since the days of the Renaissance. The greatest artists of their day helped decorate Siena's cathedral. Complete Video Script. Annie: Which is made into great sausages and ham hocks. It's worth strolling through the dramatic halls to see fascinating frescoes and portraits extolling Siena's greats, saints, and the city-as-utopia, when this proud town understandably considered itself the vanguard of Western civilization. Until next time, la vita è bella — that's "life is beautiful." Rick: Oh, there you've got…? Characteristic tavernas serve local dishes in a grotto-chic atmosphere — this one [Taverna San Giuseppe] under a fine old medieval vault. To help you get started, we've listed our top picks for where to go in Tuscany, and our plan for your best two-week trip. First we'll learn about the original Tuscans — the ancient Etruscans — at Volterra's Etruscan Museum, then we'll tour a hill town that was important to both the Etruscans and the Romans, head into the woods for a truffle hunt, eat slow food Italian-style during Sunday lunch in Chiusure, and finish in Montepulciano, where we'll get passionate about the local wine. The dogs are given two commands: "Dov'è" means "Where is it?" Afterwards, Victoria lovingly tends her aging rounds of cheese. It looks like the Palazzo Vecchio in Florence because it was built under Florentine dominance five centuries ago. We recommend our favorites in the Rick Steves Florence & Tuscany guidebook, and you can also find a comprehensive list at Agriturismo.it. Rick: I bet the Etruscans liked this. Adamo: Il Nobile viene invecchiato in queste botti di rovere — di rovere francese, rovere di slovonia, rovere italiano. "Aperitivo" is Italian for "happy hour," basically. Annie: So, every Saturday morning when the town market is held, this little corner is where all the farmers meet to discuss, you know, how they're going to sell their wheat, what fertilizer they are going to use, or whatever they need. I love bruschetta, and my favorite is without toppings — just the olive oil and garlic. Each of the scenes is framed with an arch, as if opening a window into the real world. Rick: OK. Annie: Exactly. This is your chance to try the Super Tuscan wine — a creative mix of international grapes grown in Tuscany. The three seriously eroded heads date from the second century B.C., and show what can happen when you leave something outside for 2,000 years. Chianti, with its rugged hills and farmland, charms visitors with a slower, more rustic lifestyle. Get inspired with Rick Steves’ recommended places to go and things to do, with tips, photos, videos, and travel information on Tuscany. You'll see etched mirrors, stylized bronze buckles, intricately decorated pot handles, and exquisitely crafted jewelry. Roberto: No chemicals first, but also, the varieties. A heavenly chamber orchestra provides music as women in fine gowns and jewelry dance. While tourists pack the more famous places, little off-beat gems like this remain overlooked, and are great places for enjoying the traditional culture. Skip the palace's formal wine-tasting showroom facing the square, and instead head down the lane on the right to the actual cellars, where you'll meet lively Adamo, who has been making wine here since 1961 and welcomes tourists into the cellar. Hairy on the outside, but prosciutto in the inside. Long appreciated for its translucent quality, it was sliced thin to provide windows for Italy's medieval churches. All over town, shops tempt you with edible Sienese specialties — gourmet pasta, vintage Chianti, wild-boar prosciutto…. One of my favorite agriturismo experiences in Italy, Cretaiole is warmly run by reformed city-slicker Isabella, who came here on vacation and fell in love with country-boy Carlo. Streets are lined with noble palazzos because Florentine nobility favored Montepulciano as a breezy and relaxed place for a summer residence. Complimenti! Rick: Ah, they love their artichokes here. Siena is a stony wonderland where people rather than cars fill the streets. 16773 posts. Five are new "superior" rooms with grand views across the Tuscan valleys. A short and scenic drive south takes us through some of Italy’s finest wine country. Three hundred winding steps take you high above the town. Ecco…fantastico…perfetto. see our FAQ. Explore Europe with Rick Steves, best-selling travel author and host of public television's "Rick Steves' Europe" and public radio's "Travel with Rick Steves." Many of these are agriturismos, offering good value accommodations to travelers. Posted by cathy. Here…fantastic…perfect. Its population hasn't changed for centuries: It's still around 50,000. With Adamo's passion and guidance, wine can be enjoyed by anybody visiting Montepulciano. The vineyards here produce some of the very best wines in the world. Signora Gori rents a few rooms in her centuries-old farmhouse. Rick: 25,000 — wow! It's a family business as Isabella keeps the hospitality flowing, while husband Carlo mans the BBQ. Rick: Delizioso. Rick: Looks very good! Meanwhile, back at the agriturismo, the cattle — oblivious to their fate — are raised in free-range bliss. I'm Rick Steves, and we're exploring more of the best of Europe. What little we know about the Etruscans we've learned mostly from their fresco-covered tombs. This soil is a mix of clay and sand. The exquisite marble floor is paved with Bible scenes, intricate patterns, and allegories. And in another chapel, you'll see why Lorenzo Bernini is considered the greatest Baroque sculptor. The Altesino winery is elegant and stately. Like in any Italian city, the people of Siena are out and making the scene. Its centerpiece, Il Campo, is transformed into a medieval racetrack as tons of clay are packed atop the cobbles, and bleachers are set up. So they have a festival every year then, huh? A Nobile — taste, sir.]. With Roberto, my passeggiata includes a little history. Build the church oversized anyway, and prop up the overhanging edge by building the Baptistery underneath. And the town that was named "Corsignano" was renamed "Pienza," after Pope Pius II. A series of idealized frescos show medieval Siena's innovative health care and progressive social welfare system at work. Thanks for joining us. That's light and nice, with the truffle. Vino Nobile a breezy and relaxed place for a convivial lunch on the bus from Florence to Rome Thanksgiving... Of international grapes ; cabernet, merlot, syrah require a four-night stay presented Tuscan cuisine Baroque sculptor peaceful! 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